GOODYEAR WELTED CONSTRUCTION SYSTEM

GOODYEAR WELTED CONSTRUCTION

The origin

This complicated construction system is named after Charles Goodyear Jr. (son of Charles Goodyear, discoverer of the vulcanization of rubber), who between 1869 and 1875 made a series of patents in the US that would change the way of making footwear right up to the present day. Today, this system is still one of the best methods of shoe construction. It is a high-cost build, takes a long time and requires a highly qualified workforce; but, on the other hand, it offers unparalleled qualities of resistance, durability and possibility of repair.

Charles Goodyear, discoverer of rubber vulcanisation

What it consists of

The Goodyear Welt construction consists of joining, by stitching, the upper part (including the lining), the insole and the welt (leather strip that is placed around the entire contour of the boot and connects all three parts together). Through this process, these parts of the boot become practically inseparable. This stitching is inside the boot, so it will not be noticeable from the outside. In order to see it, you would have to disassemble the boot.

A second stitching, the rapid stitch, joins the welt with the midsole and outsole. Between the insole and the midsole an empty space appears that, according to the traditional method, is filled with cork. In addition, a shank is placed to give stability to the entire boot. This gap could also be filled with an additional layer of leather.

This second stitching allows virtually unlimited replacement of soles and midsoles. By removing the second stitching, you can separate the bottom of the shoe, leaving the base intact. You replace the new soles and midsoles, and it is stitched back to the welt. Although technically you can change the soles of all types of footwear, there is a big difference between footwear meant to be resoleable and the vast majority, which are not designed this way.

A traditional Goodyear Welt construction includes a thick natural leather insole stitched to a natural leather welt. This thick leather insole, together with the granulated cork padding, will allow a perfect mold to be made of your foot sole as you wear the boot, as well as being a natural thermal insulator.

SKAAPHERDER

Goodyear Storm Welt

At Skaapherder we use one of the variants of the construction known as “Storm Welt “. Unlike flat welts, this variant involves the use of a welt that, thanks to its design, stands between the seam and the leather of the boot, creating a form of wall or barrier. The storm welt allows the space between the welt and the upper part of the boot to be snugger and more protected, making it even more difficult for water and dust to enter the boot.