Currently and due to a growing trend by textile brands towards showing a more ecological and sustainable vision of their products, there is a tendency to highlight the most natural and highest quality components, over those that have a more synthetic origin and lower cost. This way, if a garment is composed by 50% bamboo and the other 50% is polyester, it will be labelled as a bamboo garment and the synthetic part will be omitted. We will have to check the composition label to know the real materials that compose it. This practice is carried out even when the fibre that is to be highlighted above the rest represents a minority percentage of the garment as a whole.

When it comes to wool products, the situation is no different. First of all, we must bear in mind that wool has a clear synthetic substitute: acrylic. This synthetic fibre has taken such a leading role that, on many occasions, it is referred as wool. This practice is so widespread that many sellers have to add the label “genuine wool” to distinguish real from synthetic. Recently, as a new turn of the screw, acrylics can even be labelled as vegan wool!

In the market, situations could lead to clothing that only have a 10-20% of genuine wool are presented as wool garments. In addition to acrylic, wool is cheapen mainly by blending it with polyester, one of the cheapest components on the market and the main promoter of fast fashion and the mass production of cheap gear. The wool + synthetic and artificial fibres combinations are endless.

Wool can be also found blended with nylon or elastane, in this case, although the inclusion of these fibres could be aimed at lowering costs, the most common thing is that their addition responds to a need to provide special characteristics to the garment for a certain function. They are normally integrated in certain technical garments, such as those that will be subject to abrasions or needs a perfect fit. An example may be technical socks or safety gear, in which the garment may require a contribution of synthetic fibres. In any case, the occasions in which adding synthetics to wool translates into better product performance will be scarce. As we have already mentioned in other articles, a 100% wool sock is correct for casual use or rest, however, it is not advisable for socks intended for high performance outdoor activities.

By taking socks as a reference, we can see in sports and mountain stores that some of them are described as wool or Merino wool socks. However, once we check the composition label, we can realise, on many occasions, that the percentage of wool does not even reach 50%. In this sense; from what percentage can we consider a sock or garment as a wool one? Some think that, if they contain wool, in whatever amount, they can already be called wool socks; others, on the other hand, indicate that at least wool should be the main fibre, and the more purists indicate that the only fibre they must contain is wool. Don’t get tricked! Check the composition label.

At Skaapherder we believe that a wool sock for hiking or trekking should contain at least 65% wool. We seek a perfect balance between the advantages provided by a high Merino wool content, with the inclusion of nylon (to provide durability) and elastane (for a perfect fit). Keeping in mind that the percentages will not be the same in light socks without padding, as in thick socks with terry padding. Normally, wool socks have a nylon and elastane structure to which wool is added. Depending on the characteristics that we need for the sock, it will be reinforced with the contribution of the fibres that is considered as most beneficial. In thicker socks there will be a greater possibility of increasing the percentage of wool, prioritizing the incorporation of this fibre over others. However, in light socks, since they have less possibility of contributing to the structure of the sock, the percentage of wool will be more limited. Most manufacturers that use Merino wool do not use it in 100% wool yarns, but instead use the cheaper option which is the 80/20 or 60/40 wool/nylon blend (in best case scenario, the blend is with nylon; but in some others, to achieve a lower price, they are blended with polyester or acrylic) therefore the percentage of synthetics will remain steady, even if the weight of the sock increases. In our case, we use 100% Merino wool, so the thicker the sock, the higher the percentage of wool.

Another “excuse” for mixing synthetics with wool is to avoid or delay the appearance of pilling. Mistakenly, over the years the belief has been instilled to identify garments in which pilling appears as of inferior quality. Contrary, the formation of these bubbles is a natural process that occurs when shorter fibres work their way to the surface. Paradoxically to what is usually thought, it does not mean that the wool that makes up the garment is of inferior quality, but rather it shows that the fibre is natural and has not been mixed with synthetics or has undergone extensive chemical processes to prevent its appearance. Both the length of the fibre and the type of spinning to which the wool is subjected, will make it more or less prone to pilling. It usually appears in the areas of greatest abrasion and at the beginning of its use. Under normal conditions, if it is removed in the first weeks of use, you reduce the likelihood of it reappearing, since the loose fibres have already been released. If these bubbles do not bother you and you prefer to leave them, in no case will they harm the structure or functionality of the garment.

Nor should we forget that the most common technologies that are said to increase breathability or thermal insulation, are made of polyester. At Skaapherder, on the other hand, we do not use any type of polyester in our garments. Our socks only contain Merino Wool, Nylon: to provide extra durability and greater structure, and elastane: for a perfect fit to the foot.