Is recycled polyester really a sustainable solution?

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Polyester is nowadays the most used fibre in textile garments. Also known as PET (polyethylene terephthalate), It is one of the most polluting compounds and widely used in the production of plastic containers. It is a very cheap fibre to produce, hence its success within the textile industry. Although it offers great resistance, it is mainly used to lower costs.

We also find polyester behind most of the technologies used in technical garments. They are used to provide breathability and quick drying in hot environments, and providing thermal insulation in cold conditions. Since polyester in one of the cheapest fibres to produce, manufacturers use it to create different formats that mimic the performance provided by other materials at a lower cost.

There is a growing trend by textile brands towards introducing “recycled polyester” or PET in their garments; trying, this way, to raise awareness among their customers and give a more sustainable vision of the brand. But this may not be an entirely true picture.

Polyester used in the textile industry, both normal and recycled, is more complex to recycle, especially when it is mixed with other textile fibres, and practically impossible if it is mixed in the thread itself to produce a garment. Paradoxically, the polyester or PET used in packaging is much easier to recycle.

The PET used in packaging continues the cycle of recycling and the production of new PET decreases. However, by introducing PET into textiles, we interrupt the recycling circuit and cause these types of polluting fibres to remain for longer in our day-to-day lives. A clear example is that known to us as fleece. This clothing is produced mostly by polyester (also in its recycled version) cut to produce that suede effect. This staple fibre is a real microplastic bomb in all washing processes.

The best thing we can do with used plastic bottles is produce more plastic bottles, thus we close the recycling circle.

Otherwise, by introducing it to produce textile garments, this polyester – PET will end up on a dumpsite or, at best, in an industrial incinerator.

At Skaapherder, we do not use any type of polyester, not even recycled, in the production of our garments. Instead, we strongly bet on natural fibres such as wool, and when the use of synthetic fibres is necessary, we opt for higher quality, less wear and tear solutions such as polyamide. Polyamide or nylon offers superior performance, therefore the fibre takes longer to degrade, which contributes to a lower emission of microplastics.

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