Walking through Japan. Pilgrimage in the Land of the Rising Sun.

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Since Europe is a continent that brings together a large number of pilgrimage routes, sometimes we forget that there are also great pilgrimage destinations outside the continent. On this occasion we turn our eyes to the Far East, since in Japan we find two great routes that will delight any great pilgrim or adventurer.

First of all, the Shikoku Henro (四国遍路) or Shikoku Junrei (四国巡礼) pilgrimage is a path that runs through 88 Buddhist temples around the island of Shikoku, the smallest of the Japanese archipelago. The 88 temples are associated to Kūkai (空海); July 774 – April 835), who was a Buddhist monk as well as a calligrapher, poet and who founded the Shingon school (真言宗, shingon shū), one of the main schools in Japan and the most important within esoteric Buddhism. The route was traditionally done on foot, but modern pilgrims also use other means of transport such as car, bicycle or bus. The usual path covers about 1,200 km and it usually takes between 40 and 70 days to be completed on foot. Taking into account the limited holidays that the average Japanese has, it is very common, nowadays, that this pilgrimage is made by bus or car, either alone or with an organized group and walking only the last km of each temple. The pilgrim or Henro (遍路), as they are known in Japan, do not need to visit the temples in order, in fact, on certain occasions, it is considered good luck to travel in the opposite direction.

One of the 88 temples on the Shikoku Henro route.

The traditional clothing of the Henro consists of a white shirt or vest (白衣, oizuru), the typical Asian conical hat (すげ笠, suge-kasa), and the pilgrim’s staff (金剛杖, kongō-zue). In addition to these three main elements, incense sticks and candles are also usually included for those who wish to perform the rituals in each temple.

Similar to the Camino de Santiago and other pilgrim routes, in Japan there is also a pilgrim pass book. In this case the book will be stamped in each temple visited. Both the book and the seal will have a cost; therefore, it is advisable to check the price before deciding whether you want to get the credential.

Henro in traditional dress.

The ritual upon arrival at each of the temples is an important part of this pilgrimage. The ritual consists in several steps that you must follow, as far as possible. To begin, at the entrance of the temples you must wash our hands from left to right and then our mouths. Next, you must ring the bell, if it is available. You have to ring the bell at the beginning of the arrival and after washing your hands. It is considered bad luck to ring the bell at the end of the visit. As the third and last step, you will put a candle and incense in their corresponding places. The most religious also recite mantras during the visit.

The Kumano Kodo is the other great pilgrimage route. In this case, like the Camino de Santiago, it has different possible paths that connect the three great temples of Kumano: Kumano Hongū Taisha (熊野本宮大社), Kumano Nachi Taisha (熊野那智大社) and Kumano Hayatama Taisha (熊野速玉大社). The different routes run through the Kii Peninsula (紀伊半島, Kii Hantō) on the island of Honshu, the country’s main island. The three main routes are: Kiji, Koheshi and Iseji. These routes are relatively short compared to the Camino de Santiago or the Shikoku Henro, although it will depend on where you want to start walking from.

Suspension bridge on the Kumano Kodo route.

When walking through Japan it is important to keep in mind the concept of Shugendō (修験道), which literally means “Way [of] Proof [and] Practice”. The ultimate purpose of Shugendō is for practitioners to find supernatural power or enlightenment through performing religious training, on many occasions this enlightenment is achieved by long walks through steep mountains.

Nachi Taisha Shrine in Kumano.

In short, Japan is one of the best destinations for all lovers of trekking and hiking, especially for those who like to travel paths or routes with a greater spiritual charge. Its formidable landscapes and mysticism make the country a preferred destination for adventure and for those who like to immerse themselves in a rich culture through outdoor activities.

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